I have been asked a lot lately “What are some tips on how to get my dog to stop pulling while walking”. Usually this is followed by a comment like, “I have tried everything and nothing works...what type of collar should I be using”?
There is so much in these two statements that it is really hard to address the concerns properly since every dog and their reasons for committing a particular behavior is different. Without seeing the dynamics and knowing the dog and the owner and their methods of interaction, it is quite difficult for a trainer to put a finger on what exactly is occurring. However, I am going to attempt in this blog to ball park it for people and actually give some tips on how to accomplish a loose leash heel.
Before I get into that though, I want to address a few suggestions to get you in the correct frame of mind.
- Read another blog I wrote last year called “Two Secrets to Dog Training”. I refer to it all of the time in one on ones and I find it really gets to the heart of proper communication between an owner and their dog. It addresses some thinking errors that owners have and gives some ideas on how one should shape their training.
- Get past the idea that you have tried “everything and nothing works”. I guarantee you have not tried everything. Everything is an awful lot. I would suggest to you that you have tried one or two things, met with limited success and gave up or that you keep trying the same one or two things over and over again and when you met with limited success, you gave up. No dog is hopeless and any dog can be taught to heel properly once you get proper communication going between owner and dog.
- Get past the idea that there are tricks that can be used. Like most things worth having, a good well trained dog requires dedication, time, commitment and work. There are no tricks that are a be all and end all and this includes training collars. Training collars are just that...they are tools. They cannot and will not replace good solid proper communication. A training collar may HELP proper training but it will not be a replacement for the same.
- Get past comparing your dog with your parent’s dog, the dog down the road or your previous dog. You have a different dog, you are a different person and you are different now then you were then. I have met some dogs that were easier to train in certain areas then others. This is completely normal.
Ok, now that those things are said and out of the way lets get down to some nitty gritty tips and methods that can help you.
Tip A: Get your dog accustomed to the leash early in life
Introduce the leash to your dog at a young age. This does not mean that you have to hook your puppy onto the leash and drag them around...more that the dog should get used to a leash and get some practice coming when called, lots of rewards and praise for returning to his owner’s side when wandering around and some early exposure to the same. If you do this, you will have a solid foundation for leash work.
Tip B: Walk your dog a lot
I cannot stress this enough. A walk around the block a couple of times a week is not going to cut it. Your dog is cooped up all day and all evening. If the only time they get some freedom outside the back yard is a couple of times a week for ten to fifteen minutes, smack yourself upside the head because you are defeating your dog before you even get started. Imagine yourself in the same scenario...cooped up in the house, allowed out in the backyard...you are allowed out a couple of times a week for fifteen minutes and then you are expected to behave perfectly. Ummmm, not going to happen. A dog should be walked everyday, period. It is good for you and good for your dog. This walk should be a leashed walk. While off leash is ok if you live in an area and have a dog where this is appropriate, it cannot and will not replace a good on leash walk.
Tip C: Have realistic expectations
When out on a normal walk, do not expect a complete loose leash heel the entire time. The dog’s mind is going to wander...this is ok. I always take the stance that unless I am in class or a working situation where I want a heel that is totally textbook, then I relax. As long as my dogs are not pulling me, I am ok with them being a little in front of me or a little behind me
Tip D: Socialize your dog properly
Expose them to as much as you can. If they are regularly walked, then they will be used to coming across other people, other dogs, squirrels, rabbits, different smells. If this is something they are used to, then they are less likely to yank you off your feet when they come across said distraction on your walk.
Tip E:
Start in an area with low distraction and increase S the difficulty as the dog’s proficiency with heeling gets better. Think of it this way...your kid will follow you down a empty sidewalk no problem at all but put them in the middle of Disneyland and all bets are off. Start small with low distraction and build on success. While I am on this topic, remember you are setting your dog up for success as opposed to failure. Start easy, bomb proof your dog on the easy things before you make it harder.
Tip F:
A good obedience class is worth it’s weight in gold. It will help in all aspects of your training tremendously. A good instructor can pick your techniques and communication apart. A good instructor can tweak what you are doing and demonstrate how to improve things. A good class will provide socialization in that your dog will be exposed to other dogs and people and you will have to work your dog around these distractions. It really is invaluable.
Now a couple of techniques I have used with success
“Become a tree”. I describe this technique in depth in the blog I mentioned above. No need for me to go into it again. Read through this. It works like a charm when done correctly.
“Run with your dog”. Hook the leash to yourself, the other end to your dog, proceed to a playground and run. Go nuts. Run around the posts and obstacles changing directions as much as you can. Encourage your dog to follow you. Pretty soon, the dog will realize that staying by your side is a great thing, is a lot of fun and is needed. If you do not or cannot run, walk...just change directions a lot. The dog will be forced to follow and pay attention.
“Too bad so sad”. I like using this one when a dog is pulling to get to or to get at something. This is very similar to the “Become a tree” method I mention above but it is with a twist. Say that your dog really pulls you in order to get to the car. Hook the leash to your dog, sit the dog and tell them they are going for a ride in the car. Start walking the dog toward the car. If the dog lunges ahead, turn around say “too bad, so sad” and return to the starting point. Repeat. Pretty soon, the dog is going to get through their head...if I pull, I return to the start. If I do not pull, I get to the car. Substitute car for food, person, a favorite toy...get the idea?
This list is not meant to be a “How to” document. More a document that one can use to shape their thinking. I do not address things like dominance or reactive dogs because I can write books on the same and again each dog/owner team is different and unique.
As always, comments, questions and criticism is welcome